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Dining Trends We Love: Patios, Small Plates and Sushi
Posted 2009-05-14 12:37:07 by Kelly Ashkettle
(Photo by Amy Spencer | In Utah This Week) The West Temple location of Meditrina is where children wait to catch baseballs from Franklin Covey Field.
(Photo by Scott Sommerdorf | For In Utah This Week) The interior of Meditrina.
(Photo by Kelly Ashkettle | For In Utah This Week) Eva is located next to Cheers to You.
(Photo by Kelly Ashkettle | For In Utah This Week) Z'Tejas' patio at the Gateway offers a good chance for people-watching.
(Photo by Kelly Ashkettle | For In Utah This Week) Oasis' courtyard patio offers tranquility.
(Photo by Robert Owen-Wahl) Japanese sushi seafood rolls with rice

Patios

As the Salt Lake temperature hovers around 70 degrees for just a few brief weeks, the soft breezes feel better than any climate-controlled interior, and I seek any opportunity to be outside, which definitely includes dining. Here are my current downtown faves.

Faustina (454 E. 300 South, 801-746-4441): A few weeks ago, I met a friend for my first visit to Faustina. It was such a balmy evening that the restaurant's interior was empty while the cozy-looking patio was filled to capacity. We munched on divinely flaky chicken pillow pastry seasoned with pine nuts, dried cranberry and sage. Nearby pillars were illuminated with soft lighting as wine glasses tinkled all around us, making us feel like we were in a sophisticated movie.

Café Trio (680 S. 900 East, 801-533-8746): Café Trio's patio is spacious and surrounded by lush green trees. Lately I've been daydreaming about sitting there while sampling cedar-roasted salmon with seasonal mushrooms, fava beans and orange -rosemary butter.

Oasis Cafe (151 S. 500 East, 801-322-0404): Oasis Cafe's patio is in an enclosed courtyard that makes me feel as if I've been transported to a European country -- especially when I'm trying appetizers like the Cheese & Fruit Gallery, which features cheese samples from around the world.

The Tin Angel Café (365 W. 400 South, 801-328-4155): Like the rest of The Tin Angel, the patio is small but charming and it offers a great view of Pioneer Park, so you can feel serene while trying dishes like Speck Wrapped Shrimp (aged, dry-cured, spiced Italian ham wrapped around large grilled prawns drizzled with apricot champagne vinaigrette).

Z'Tejas (191 South Rio Grande at The Gateway, 801-456-0450): Enjoy some Parmesan pecan-crusted chicken salad, hand-hacked guacamole and fresh cornbread while people-watching both shoppers and patio diners at adjoining restaurants.

Small Plates

"Small plates" is far from a new idea: in Spanish cuisine they're called "tapas"; the Asian version is "dim sum"; in Italian it's "antipasti," and in Eastern Mediterranean cuisine they're known as "mezze." Anyway you slice them, they're large appetizers designed for sampling and sharing to create a light meal. The trend began sweeping the U.S. a few years ago, and this year it's begun to take over Salt Lake, particularly in the form of the small-plates-and-wine-bar. Here's what's currently dotting the landscape.

Eva (317 S. Main, 801-359-8447): It's the newest addition to Salt Lake's small plates scene. Though it opened in March in the space formerly occupied by Lazy Dog Pizzeria, it's just coming into its own with the firm establishment of its liquor license and the launch of its Web site (www.evaslc.com), which features a 25 percent off coupon for its already low prices (many of its offerings go for around $5). Try the spanacopita; you'll thank me.

Meditrina (1394 S. West Temple, 801-485-2055): It opened in November in the space formerly occupied by Mama's Southern Plantation. On a recent visit, the IN staff loved the exposed brick walls hung with art, and we couldn't get enough of the Bruschetta with Date, Gorgonzola and Balsamic Reduction or the Caramelized Pear Crème Brulee. Dinner prices average around $9 per time.

Martine (22 E. 100 South, 801-363-9328): It's comparatively light years ahead of the small plates trend, having opened in 1999. Based on the European bistro style cooking, their tapas cost $8 to $11. IN writer Amanda Chamberlain flipped for one of their salads on her visit last year; a current offering is a pinenut crusted shepherd's goat cheese with grilled Belgian endive salad for $9.

Café Madrid (2080 E. 3900 South, 801-273-0837): Probably the area restaurant that can most rightfully claim to serve tapas, since it serves traditional Spanish food. This one, too, is well ahead of the curve, having opened over a decade ago. Prices for tapas range from $7.50 to $18.50 and include everything from cheese to octopus.

Sushi

Sushi restaurants seem to be almost as plentiful in Salt Lake these days as Starbucks. It seems like everyone wants to get in on the act, but not everyone can do it right. For every stellar establishment like Takashi, Happy Sumo, Ichiban or Tsunami, there seem to be two mediocre ones and one terrible one. There are a number of new places casting their nets right now, and some of them have some pretty creative approaches.

HayaiZushi (307 W. 600 South, 801-364-1699): The name means "fast sushi," and that's exactly what you get -- there's even a drive-thru! The limited menu is designed for speed and convenience. You won't find a Caterpillar Roll here, but you will find a Hawaiian Luau Roll, featuring -- wait for it -- grilled Spam. The prices are excellent, with 8-piece rolls ranging from $5.99 to $11.99. Service is lightning fast, though the rolls are a bit loose. At lunchtime on a weekday, my rice was breathtakingly fresh, but on a Sunday evening it was a bit sticky and vinegary -- though still slightly above average. The whole concept definitely blows fast food burger joints out of the water. It's about time someone thought of this. And oh, yeah, that someone is Peggi Whiting, former master chef at Ichiban. Some people have all the good ideas.

The Last Samurai Japanese Steakhouse and Sushi Bar (214 W. 600 South, 801-532-2436): The Last Samurai opened a Park City location in October and followed it up with a Salt Lake one last month. Patrons (whether they know one another or not) are seated in a group around a grill as a chef puts on a flamboyant show complete with making flames shoot into the air and tossing food into people's mouths. While it's a pretty good act, and the little girls at my table were entranced, I found most the grilled food pretty bland, and my sushi was definitely lacking in freshness; the Caterpillar Roll I ordered was limp and soggy, leaving me longing for Happy Sumo's version.

Simply Sushi (180 W. 400 South, 801-746-4445): The West Jordan location of Simply Sushi (at 7117 S. Redwood Road) offers all-you-can-eat sushi for $14.95 for lunch or $19.95 for dinner and includes some fun titles like the Mango Tango Roll and the King Kong Tempura Roll. A downtown location is "coming soon." While the outdoor signs are complete, there is still evidence of construction inside. I'll be waiting patiently.
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